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High Mountain Oolong and Iron Goddess of Mercy

Have you wondered what are the most famous and revered premium teas out there?! I did and so I started researching. Quality, scarcity and price are the key criteria I used in my selection.

Here are my top 10 famous teas (coming from the Camellia Sinensis plant):

  1. Anji White (Anji Bai Cha)
  2. Big Red Robe (Da Hong Pao)
  3. Darjeeling First Flush
  4. Dragonwell (Long Jing)
  5. Gyokuro (Jade Dew)
  6. High Mountain (Gao Shan) Oolong
  7. Matcha (ceremonial grade)
  8. Sheng Pu-erh
  9. Tie Guan Yin (Iron Goddess of Mercy)
  10. White Hair Silver Needle (Baihao Yinzhen)

I will split this series into 5 blogs, each covering 2 famous teas.

A few general remarks to start with. The best quality teas are normally consumed locally by tea connoisseurs who can afford them, the remaining are exported. The most expensive of them are still handmade, although Japanese teas are mostly machine-processed. A lot of skill and time is required to make them. They are usually produced in small quantities by small farmers. All these factors determine the quality of the teas and thus their price.    

High Mountain Oolongs

High Mountain Oolongs are the most reputed teas in Taiwan. Production started in the 1980s after the global trade embargo against China was lifted.

The best teas come from the high mountains (gaoshan) of Nantou County (Ali Shan, Shan Lin Si, Lishan, Shan Lin Xi, Yu Shan).

The tea plants grow at high altitudes (over 1,000m) where the climate is ideal for producing these deliciously sweet, floral and creamy teas. That is because the tea plants grow slower and accumulate more nutrients and flavour. The high elevation also comes with the benefit of fewer insects and thus limited or no use of pesticides.

Each high mountain area has its own unique flavours and aromas based on its terroir. The harvest time also has an impact on flavour; spring and autumn harvests are the most qualitative.

Up to 4 leaves are used to make these teas. The tea master repeatedly rolls the leaves into semi-balls, for up to 8 hours. The level of oxidation is relatively light at around 15%. The light oxidation brings out floral, sweet, and milky flavour notes.

As with all balled oolongs, this tea can be steeped multiple times. With each brew, hotter water should be used or allow a longer infusion.

                                                                            

Iron Goddess of Mercy

Iron Goddess of Mercy is, together with Big Red Robe, the most appreciated oolong tea from China. It has been originally made in Anxi County.

The tea comes from the homonym cultivar. The cultivar is known for the speed of growth and abundant harvests. According to Kevin Gascoyne & al. (2016), the cultivar contains more nutrients (polyphenols, amino acids, catechins) and is rich in minerals (manganese, iron, potassium). This would explain the slightly mineral taste of the tea.  

According to Jane Pettigrew (2018), the tea plants are harvested 4 times a year, with the spring and autumn harvests being the most qualitative. The tea leaves are both oxidised and roasted. The levels of oxidation and roasting vary from tea to tea. The traditional method is to heavily oxidise and roast it, which ends in a toasty, fruity and sweet liquor. The modern method consists in lighter oxidation and roasting, which results in a highly aromatic and floral liquor. The price of Tie Guan Yin made using the modern method is lower since it is easier and faster to make the tea.

Making this type of tea by hand is a very laborious task because it involves multiple rolling. 

Tie Guan Yin oolong tea